January 15, 2015
We are in the small town of Quepos, Costa Rica – once a thriving banana port, but now home to several sport-fishing businesses, and entry to Miguel Antonio park, which Hannah visited yesterday. She saw three kinds of monkeys, a coatimundi, sloths and a gorgeous beach. Quepos is a bit of an “ex-pat” community, evidenced by a local band last night playing some Carlos Sanatana in a bar full of gringos. They were very good.
The bananas here were wiped out years ago by “Panama Disease,” and United Fruit moved its operations to the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. The city is named for the Quepos Indians, who were also wiped out, not by disease but by the less than gentle ministrations of the Conquistadores.
We’ve finally passed out of the zone of the strong winds that sweep across Central America, and into deeply tropical weather – that is, hot and humid. We are usually soaked in sweat, and sleeping at night reminds me of the old days in New York City in August, before the advent of near universal air conditioning. It rained this morning and was tolerably cool for an hour…
We’re in the “monsoon trough,” an area of area of lower atmospheric pressure, typically with giant clouds, occasional rain, and in a few months, lots of thunderstorms. We may face some strong winds again when we enter the Gulf of Panama, but until then it is just hot, hotter and hottest.
Our friend Anita is joining us here today, ten days in advance of her husband Andy, who will meet us in Panama. As soon as she gets here we’ll fill our fuel tank for the trip to Panama, and then take a one day trip to Golfito, Costa Rica, where we will be able to do our own paperwork for the “zarpe” to Panama – without the otherwise obligatory $400 agent.
This stop allowed us to replace our reefing life, almost worn through by the passage through the Papagayo winds. Otherwise, all is well. We’ve restocked out rum, which, in violation of every good boating rule, was running on empty.